[wpcol_1half id=”” class=”” style=””]AH, ceramic tile. So… NOW. Pretty easy to install. To me the hard part is the planning. I ALWAYS dry fit with full tiles. Yes, it’s really great (and lucky you) if you can start at door and have full tiles go to the tub. I have yet to have that happen to me. I always end up with a sliver on the other side of the room. Unfortunately, even if that wasn’t ugly, most homes built in the last 10 years don’t have truly square rooms. This bathroom was no exception so that sliver by the tub was 1/2 inch wide on one end and 1 and 1/2 inch wide on the other end. The only way to fix this is to start with a half tile at door and when you get to tub edge your tiles, although halves, will hide the discrepancies. It’s way more difficult to tell the difference between tiles at one end that are 9 inches wide and tiles at the other end are 10 and 1/2 inches.[/wpcol_1half][wpcol_1half_end id=”” class=”” style=””]
[/wpcol_1half_end]These are 18 inch square tiles, laid over cement board. Make sure the seams in your backer board do not line up with seams (grout lines) in tile. I REALLY wanted to remove my vanity and tile under it but the plumbing was put in in such a way that this was not possible. So I butted tile right up against toe kick of cabinet and sealed crack with silicone (not grout) because I hate the look of quarter round. Quarter round up against the toe kick always screams “renovation” to me.
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It’s always scary pulling out a toilet but I figured this was a new house so no big deal. Hmmm. 4 year old house already having mold problems. Having the toilet tank touching the wall is never a good idea. In fact, it was touching the wall without the tank lid on. The tank lid couldn’t seat properly so condensation was dripping down the outside of the tank. Thankfully, there was enough play in the toilet drain to move it about 1 and 1/2 inch away from this position. If your drain needs to be moved please do it before you put down backer board and tile. :)[/wpcol_1half_end]